Llama Care
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The Basics of Llama Care
Feed and Water for
Llamas- The basic feeding of a llama is
simple. They eat the same as goats, cows, and other livestock.
If you have a good grass, good hay, and clean water that usually is all that is
required. Good grass is any good feed grass such as Bermuda, Alicia, or
...with a protein content of between 10 and 12%. Llamas don't require high
protein such as Alfalfa and can often get along fine with the lower protein
grass and hay. Hay should be of a similar protein content. Usually,
although llamas love it, Bahaia is too low in protein and overall nutrition to
sustain the llamas by itself, and it doesn't keep well as hay. Problems
with Fescue have been reported in breeding animals and thus is avoided by most
llama breeders, unless their sources are certified entophyte free.
Although llamas don't require great amounts of water, fresh, cool water should
always be available in clean containers. (note: open pales on the ground
invite wading during the hot months, so if some are on the ground, others for
fresh water should be high enough to prevent "wading/soaking").
Many llama owners supplement
their llama's grass and hay with a high quality grain made especially for llamas
or a coarse cattle dairy chow, low in molasses. This kind of supplementation is only
necessary if the grass and hay provide less than the required nutrition.
Some owners use it to add essential minerals to the llamas diet (See
"supplements"). As for how to feed hay or grain, the
methods are numerous and become individual choice. Some owners have
elaborate feeding troughs and feed pans, while others just feed the hay and food
right off the ground, where it usually ends up anyway if the llama has its
say.
It is important to remember that llamas are browsers as
well as grazers and will be more than happy to clean out the kudzu, or thorns in
your woods, bottoms or pastures, and they seem to enjoy browsing leaves and
vines even more than eating grass when given the chance, so don't forget to give them
this opportunity, if it is
available. (Back
to choices)
Foot Care for Llamas.
Foot care for llamas is relatively simple to demonstrate and do, but difficult
to write about, thus, I will be brief. The best way to learn about foot
care is to get the person who sold you your llama or another willing llama owner
to demonstrate the method for cutting toe nails and to observe you while you do
it. Generally the only foot care required for llamas is toe nail clipping
every two to three months, depending on age and growth rate. The llama
foot consists of a leathery pad with two toes and a triangular shaped toe nail
on each; that's 8 toe nails that need to be trimmed periodically. The only
tool required is a sharp pair of rose clippers or nail shears. The biggest
concern in cutting the nails is picking up the legs and having the llama stand
still while you do your work. A well-trained llama will do this out in the
open without being tied. However, most llamas are not that well trained
and require at least having their halter tied to the fence. Llamas are
naturally sensitive about their legs, and thus, it may take some training to get
them to allow you to handle their feet properly. This is probably the
second most important training element every llama should know. The first
is to stand still while being handled, haltered and groomed. Natural methods of
trimming nails include, concrete floors in barns or shelters, concrete pads near
the water buckets or fans, or areas of the pasture that are very rocky all of
which tend to keep the nails filed to a reasonable level. Anytime the nail
is pointed below the pad, is curved at the top or twisted, it probably is way
beyond need of cutting, so check it out and keep that llama from going lame or
being in pain. (Back
to choices)
Fencing for Llamas.
One of the first things new llama owners ask is what kind of fence do I
need. Llama owners use a wide variety of fencing all of which seems to
work well when there are two or more llamas together. The fence simply
acts as a boundary for the llama telling it where not to go, and llamas usually
won't exit that boundary as long as what they need is inside it. When you
think in terms of fencing the following principals seem to apply.
1. The real purpose of the fence
is to keep predators out, not to keep the llamas in.
2. The most purposeful fences you make might be to keep breeding males
(herd sires)
apart.
3. Fencing is never finished...you always need more fences.
4. When fencing, don't forget catch pens...always make them a part of your
fencing plan
because you will eventually have to have one for any fenced area.
5. The only real no-no for llama fencing is NO BARBED WIRE! You would
understand this
if you ever saw a llama caught up in barbed wire.
So what do you use? Chain Link, Post and Board,
New Zealand Wire, Electric Strand, Cattle Wire, Cattle Panels, Post and Log,
Brick, Electric Tape or what? Any of the above or a combination of the
above and then some have all been used successfully. It all comes down to
personal taste, depth of the pocket, permanency, expediency and what you already
have.
Start with what your pocket book and time will permit and make it work for
you. Consider a hot wire on the outside bottom, especially where small or
young llamas are concerned, primarily to keep out predators. How high? We
have used 39" cattle wire for years with no escapes, except when running
from us and then we open the gate and they come back in.
The key is that llamas are herd animals and stay together. If one happens
to get out, it will rarely wonder off, but will stick around until it is let
back in with the herd. No, you don't need 6 or 8 foot steel fences, five
strands of high tensile wire pulled from 500 foot corners across steel T-posts
have served us well in pastures where predators were not a problem. (These
are non-electrified lines). Your best bet is to visit several llama
farms and see what has worked for them, and then decide what will work best for
you. (Back
to choices)
Housing for Llamas. Guess
what. Llamas have survived 4,000 years without houses, so I'm not too sure
what all the excitement is about having houses for them. Shelter for a
llama in the wild is a low area where he can get out of the blowing snow or
freezing wind. They have built-in rain coats, so the rain is not a
problem. You will understand this the first time you try to wash one and
the skin is still dry when you think you are through. Anyway, my
colleagues will be upset if I leave it at that. Most llama breeders,
especially those in the colder climates, believe that llamas should have some minimal
kind of shelter to get out of the rain and elements if they want to. So,
what is minimal? Most people build simple 3 sided wood shelters with
the back to the prevailing winds. We have used simple canvass canopies,
temporary, but effective for keeping off rain, hail, and that terrible summer
sun. If you have the money you can buy some real fancy wooden or metal
barns that are wonderful for both you and the animal. But, most llama
owners have only a few llamas and simple shelters do the job. To me the
critical time for shelters here in the south is summer, when the llamas require
shade. A good old shade tree is the best, but the barn is pretty fine,
especially when the fans are blowing full blast. (See "Heat
Stress) (Back
to choices)
Supplements for Llamas Most llama owners believe that their llamas need
additional minerals, vitamins and other supplements especially when they are on
pasture or hay with no additional feed. Many of the feeds made especially
for llamas include most of the "essential" minerals your llama will
need. Feeds made for other livestock usually also contain supplemental
minerals, but may not be right for llamas. For instance, they may be too
high in copper which may be toxic to llamas (but not as toxic as for sheep and
goats). Many llama owners provide their llamas some kind of grain in order
to get them to consume essential minerals they might otherwise not
get. As a minimum, the llama should have available "free choice",
at all times, a salt block and, or preferably a llama mineral mix which
includes salt and the other essential minerals the llama requires, along with
fresh water. In some areas of the country the soil is short on minerals such as
selenium. Take a sample of your grass, hay, and soil to your county
agent and have it tested to see if there are minerals or micronutrients that
your llama is not getting, and supplement accordingly. I believe free
choice for supplements is always preferable to force feeding by adding to grain.
The animals will naturally choose to eat what they need if it is available to
them. (Back
to choices)
Illnesses of Llamas Llamas
are very hardy stock and rarely get very sick. They are also very
stoic. So much so that if they appear to be ill, they are usually very,
very sick indeed. When they do get sick, they usually do so very rapidly and go
downhill quickly, so immediate attention to their problem is necessary. If
proper immunization is given annually and worming is done regularly, llamas have
four main problems to rule out when they are sick, meningeal worm, heat
problems, choking and stomach ulcers (Stress). Most other problems are
minor and pass quickly. The llamas biggest enemy in captivity is heat and
I discuss that at some length under heat stress. Suffice it to say, llamas
need to be sheared annually in the spring and provided with shelter from the
heat to prevent severe heat problems and the potential of death. (See Heat
Stress)
Stomach ulcers appear be the
most common undiagnosed illness until it is too late. Llamas are prone to
overreaction physiologically to stress and one of those overreactions is the
creation of stomach ulcers, which can be life threatening. Research is
continuing on this problem in llamas and some findings seem to suggest that grain
concentrates, corn and other types of supplements may increase the likelihood of
ulcers or make them worse. Diagnosis is difficult, but in severe later
stages the llama hums constantly, and may lay on the ground frequently and
stretches out its legs to the side with its head up and turned backward (not
dissimilar to labor). The veterinarian may provide medication either oral
or most likely in injection form. To prevent ulcers, keep stress minimal,
and change feed, hay types, etc. as little as possible. When it is
necessary to change feeds, do so gradually by mixing it in increasing quantities
with the old feed until completely changed over. This will lesson the
impact on the stomach.
Choking
is almost never seen on a normal llama diet of
grass, hay, leaves, and vines. It is almost always due to large amounts of
grain eaten too quickly and the grain getting into the long throat and swelling up,
closing off the passage so that the cud cannot come up and nothing can go down. Choking can
be mild to life threatening. But, it can be prevented by not feeding
large processed grain pellets. These pellets, especially larger pellets made for
cattle swell when in contact with water or other liquids. It is best to
test any feed you get in pelletized form by placing a few grains in water and if
they swell quickly, don't use them. The best bet is to use coarse grain
rather than pellets, or grain that contains very small pellets. In the case
where choke does occur, you can sometimes help by messaging heavily the throat at the point
of compaction. But it is best if the choke last more than a few minutes to
call your vet. The choke can often be broken up by running a stiff tube
down the throat and punching out the impaction, or washing it out through a
tube, but both of these need to be done carefully, preferably by your vet.
Meningeal worm (MW) is a parasite carried by white-tailed
deer and then by a snail and when ingested by the llama can cause severe brain
damage and death. The only sure way to deal with it is to prevent
it. Prevention at this point in time is only available using subcutaneous
injections of Ivermectin on a regular basis, such as every 3 to 4 weeks (pour on
and oral routes do not seem to provide adequate protection). There are many
claims that once the worm takes hold it can be killed using high doses of Ivermectin.
This is probably true, but by the time symptoms are noticed much damage is already done and most
llamas fail to recover fully, if at all. If there are white tailed deer
anywhere in your vicinity your llamas should be on ivermectin regimen to prevent
this terrible illness. Most llamas with MW present with weakness in the
hindquarters, inability to get up and down easily, circling,
staggering. (Back
to choices)
Annual Vaccinations
for Llamas Annual vaccinations for your llamas are
just as important as annual shots for your dog or other animals. As noted
in the Illness section, llamas are rarely sick, but we still try to prevent
illnesses from happening. Most llama owners have their vet give their
llamas annual injections of C,D&T and Rabies. If llamas are kept in an
area where poisonous snakes are found, many owners administer an 8-Way
vaccination in place of
C,D&T, to cover their llamas for severe swelling caused by the venom if the
llama is bitten. Many owners also give their pregnant mother llamas a
booster of C,D&T about a month before they are scheduled to deliver, in the
belief that this will boost the mother's antibodies that are passed on to the
cria in her colostrum. Most owners start their crias vaccinations between
3 weeks and 6 weeks of age, but many different regimens are used. (Back
to choices)
Heat Stress in Llamas Since
llamas are native to the high cool plains of the South American Highlands, they are
generally not well adapted to deal with the heat conditions found in the U.S.
and other countries during the summer months. Therefore, owners have to
take special precautions to protect them from excessive heat, especially in
areas where humidity is also high. Llamas are prone to heat stress
due to their very heavy fiber coats. Most llamas have a dual coat
consisting of an interior fiber which is very fine and warm and which is
excellent for spinning into yarn and and exterior coat which is longer stiffer
waterproof fibers that protect the llama from water and cold acting as a
raincoat and shedding the elements. Though the coat is fabulous in the
winter and in inclement weather, it can be the llamas worst enemy during hot,
humid weather. Shearing is a must. Once a llama has heat stress, the
problem does not go away. Heat stress is a cumulative
problem. If the llama has heat stress once, it becomes much easier for it
the have heat stress again and again when exposed to heat, with increased
severity and sensitivity. Thus, it is extremely
important to keep the llama from getting heat stress initially. Most
owners protect their llamas from heat stress by several actions. The first
and most important action is shearing. Llamas are generally sheared in the
early spring. If their coat grows fast or the llama lives in hotter climate
areas they may need to be resheared in the late summer to help them stay cool during the hot months.
For specifics on shearing see Shearing of Llamas
below. Other actions which will help prevent heat stress are shade and
shelter from the heat, fans available in the shelters, running water or pools
for the llamas to lay in, control of parasites and minimal change in diet,
availability of appropriate
minerals or supplements, and lots of clean, cool fresh water to drink. We
often go out on the hottest days and spray the llamas legs and bellies (not
their backs)...they love it!
What if heat stress
occurs? Generally, heat problems present with the llama laying down a lot,
breathing through the nose and heaving, not getting up when approached or
only with great effort, staggering when walking, and in the male, swollen
testicles. If you, suspect heat problems, immediately get the llama out of
the sun, if it still has wool on, shear it off and wet the llamas belly and
legs, get air movement around the llama with a fan or other mechanism. Be
sure and not get water on the main coat or back of the llama as this will act as
an insulator and make the llama even hotter. In severe cases, people have used
rectal flushing with cold water to speed the reduction of internal
temperature or ice baths. Sitting the llama in front of a fan blowing over
bags of ice may also be helpful. Encourage the llama to drink cool water. Once the llama
has had a severe case of heat stress it should not be allowed to get back into
the heat. One problem is that llamas love to sun bath and often choose to
do it on the hottest days in the hottest part of the day. It is a good
idea to get them up and out of the sun if you see them doing
this. Some owners having the availability of air conditioned
spaces in their barns or other locations, allow their llamas to lounge in these
areas during the hottest part of the day and then are turned out when the
temperature drops. I would not recommend this procedure as llamas have
been known to die from quick, extreme changes in temperatures. (Back
to choices)
Shearing of Llamas
Llamas
are sheared for a variety of reasons. The two most common reasons are to
harvest the fiber to make yarn and to help the llamas deal with heat during the
hotter parts of the year. Llama fiber is a very, very fine wool-like hair
which is coveted by spinners to make into fine yarn that can then be made into
all kinds of clothing and art work.
Unlike sheep the legs, underbelly and neckwool of the llama is usually not
harvested for spinning. There are a number of different shearing cuts used by llama
owners. We will not go into detail about each cut, but suffice it to say
the following cuts are popular. Barrel cut - Wool around the back and
belly are removed but all leg, neck and hip wool remains. This cut is often used
for show llamas when the owner wishes to show off the llamas wool coverage, but
still wants to protect the llama from heat problems. Cria/Bare cut -
A total body cut, most all fiber removed. This is often used when there is
a lot matting that needs to be removed or for a restart on the
growth of the
wool for whatever purpose. Lion cut - This is essentially a barrel cut
with the hips and rear legs sheared down to the hocks. This cut is often
used for breeding males. The males seem to really enjoy this cut and strut
around a lot after it. Most important in deciding on the proper cut for
your llama are what you want to do with you
llama and what is necessary to keep them cool. It is important, especially for light colored
llamas who spend a lot of time outdoors. that you leave about an inch of fiber
on to prevent sunburn which can be severe and painful.
What to do with the fiber?
Check with other llama owners and see which spinners in your area like to use
llama fiber. Usually you can sell it to them or pay them to spin it into
yarn that you can use or sell yourself. (Back
to choices)
Breeding of Llamas One
of the primary uses of llamas is to make little llamas and until you have been
involved in this aspect of llama ownership you can't really appreciate
llamas. Llamas are induced ovulators. That means that the dam
(female) ovulates (produces eggs) at the time of mating. They do not have
visible cycles per se, like most other domestic animals. That also means that they
can breed any time of the year, which helps the breeder control the breeding
situation to avoid births during extremes of heat or cold. Most llamas in
the United States are "hand bred". That is, the breeder selects
a particular male and female pair and puts them together to allow breeding when
he wants them to and separates them again after breeding has taken place.
Some breeders, however, use "pasture breeding" where the male
and female are kept together at all times and breed when the female is
open. The advantage of hand breeding is control of which llamas breed to
which (the genetics) and of knowing the date when the cria (baby llama) will be
born.
Llamas breed in "sternal
recumbancy". The female lays down on her stomach and the male
approaches from behind. The male has an interesting noise he makes
throughout the breeding period, a soft gurgling sound. The breeding between the
male and female often takes between 20 and 45 minutes and may occur two or three
times during a 24 hour period if permitted. The dam carries the cria for
11 1/2 months, give or take a week and she is ready to breed again in two weeks
after the cria is born. Thus, it is theoretically possible for an adult
female llama to have a cria
every year on approximately the same day. Sometimes llamas will not become
pregnant as the result of a breeding or series of breedings and sometimes they
will lose a pregnancy during the first three months, thus it is rare for a
female to have a cria every year, although they may have one most
years. When ready to deliver, the dam hums more and more and lays
down and gets up repeatedly. The cria is born usually while the dam
stands and usually delivers between 9 a.m. and 4 p.m. This latter fact is
probably a carry over from the necessity of the cria to be dry before the advent
of the freezing temperatures at night in high plains, and the need for the cria
to be ready to move with the herd and to escape predators at night. Usually the cria is up,
walking and feeding within twenty minutes to two
hours of birth. Birth problems are relatively rare with
llamas. (Back
to choices)
Grooming of Llamas
Obviously in the wild llamas are never groomed, but depending on their use,
llamas in domestic use are groomed relatively often. Show llamas are
groomed at least before every show, but some owners groom their llamas
periodically all year round so that it is less work at show time. In general
grooming involves, blowing out debris using a blower of some kind, such as a
leaf blower, washing, applying appropriate treatments (groomer's choice),
brushing, trimming, cutting toe nails, and so forth. The amount of
grooming required depends on the environment the llama lives in, the time since
last grooming, the purpose of the grooming, the amount of and type of fiber, individual preference and the habits
of the llama. Some owners always "groom to the skin" (get out
all foreign matter) while others "top clean" only (get out visible
debris). One thing to consider when grooming the llama is that it is
stressful for the llama and it can hurt. If the llama had their choice
they would never be groomed. Llama owners like to have their llamas
groomed, because they "show better" that way. Maybe. Some llama owners say
their llamas "like" to be groomed, this I doubt, but they can learn to
be very tolerant of it. (Back
to choices)
Ulcers One
physical problem which llamas have a tendency to develop is ulcers of the
stomach which can lead to bleeding ulcers and ultimately, possibly to
death. Research suggests that ulcers in llamas are related to
stress. Stress may be caused by numerous factors including changing
habitats, changing feed, diets low in fiber, excess of certain substances (some
people have suggested things like corn), too many visitors if not used to it,
unusual environments (i.e., shows), heat, lack of stable herd environment.
Ulcers are very difficult to detect in the llama since the llama is very stoic
and rarely shows illness unless he is severely ill. The best bet to
prevent ulcers in the llama is to keep the diet and the environment of the llama
as stable as possible and to be sure that the diet is appropriate for the llamas
condition. (Back
to choices)
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